Tea and Treasure in Taipei’s National Palace Museum

After two trance-like hours floating through Taipei’s National Palace Museum, Anh-thu and I were deep in Aesthetic Overload..and we’d only just gotten through the porcelains.

It’s an astonishing collection, rich and deep and painstakingly curated. Many of the objects on display are individually labelled, with supplementary descriptions. So you can stand before a Ming jar that actually seems to vibrate in tones of midnight blue and bone, while absorbing a detailed explanation of the difference between Ming porcelain made with domestic and imported cobalt pigments.

Like I said, there’s a lot to take in. Until you can’t anymore–and then it’s time for tea.

Don’t bother with the smaller coffeeshops downstairs: take the elevator directly to the 4th floor, to the San Hsi T’ang Teahouse.

San Hsi T’ang was the name of the private study of the third emperor of the Ching dynasty. He kept his favorite objects and books in a small corner of the Forbidden Palace–including three extraordinary works of calligraphy (hence the name, “Three Rarities Hall”).

The new teahouse is a terrific contemporary interpretation of traditional Chinese architecture. There’s a smooth red wood floor, matching simple wooden tables, partitions made from vertical wooden slats. Windows all around give you open vistas of green mountains, and the pagoda/cupolas on the museum roof. I wasn’t surprised to discover, later, that San Hsi T’ang teahouse was designed by Ray Chen, the same architect responsible for Taipei’s huge, gorgeous 24 hour Eslite bookstore.

Anh-thu is a vegetarian, but that was no problem, since the dim-sum menu in this contemplative space is very veggie-friendly. As a young woman plucked the melody of “The Moon Represents my Heart” on a guzheng, a Chinese zither, we ordered a few small dishes. Each one was bursting with fresh (not MSG-enhanced) flavor. The shrimp and leek dumplings contained a whole, tender shrimp and lots of sweet chopped greens. Balls of sticky red rice had just the right amount of subtle sweetness. (Tea and lunch for two came to $800 Taiwan dollars, about $27 AUD)

Only one thing marred the perfection of our teahouse break atop Taiwan’s art treasures: the oolong tea (Taiwan’s most famous, from the Alishan Mountains) arrived not in a porcelain, or even a ceramic pot, but in an everyday, stainless steel carafe that you might find in a streetside Chinese restaurant.

But no matter. There are thousands of precious teapots, cups, vases and jars a few steps away. And after some great food, exhiliarating views, and delicious tea in the sublime San Hsi T’ang, Anh-thu and I had the energy again to appreciate them.

San Hsi T’ang Tea House, 4th Floor, National Palace Museum, 221 Chih-shan Rd., Sec. 2; Shih-lin, Taipei, 11143, TAIWAN Tel:+886-2-2881-2021

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