A TACTILE Tour - Getting a Feel for Taiwan

Way, way back in time — the late 1980s — a young man from a cold northern country fetched up on the shores of this verdant sub-tropical island in the blue Pacific. Here is the story of his days since, during which the land and its people have touched his heart in many ways. Writes Rick Charette

That young man is today a happy middle-aged man who sometimes still acts his age, a true “son of Taiwan” married to a fetching island princess, a sojourner who has been blessed with more than his fair share of touching moments while exploring the island.

And not just “touching” in the abstract, heart-warming sense, but in the “I’m touching it, it’s touching me” tactile sense. Here is the story of the adult life of this traveler from the north as revealed in a selection of vignettes — his most touching sensory-experience adventures. His hope is that they will touch you as well and spur you on in your happy sensory explorations of wonderful Ilha Formosa.

First impressions were that this place was very busy, cities teemingly rich with people and activity. So off it was to prove that the green tableaux espied from incoming-plane window had not been mirages. They do indeed exist, notably along the coasts — north, east, and south — and in the up over two-thirds of this rugged, super-fecund island.

This led to an early, much-treasured, invaluable discovery — the Taiwan hot-springs phenomenon. Islanders love to soak. Newfound local friends brought the newcomer over to the backside of green Yangmingshan, on Taipei’s immediate north, on the slopes facing the north coast. Here he was led along narrow road and path to a gurgling natural hot-spring pool, sulfurous steam rising up over the lush jungle-like foliage, where he happily soaked a winter’s afternoon away and felt reborn afterwards. Taiwan sits on the Pacific Rim of Fire; there are active volcanoes no more, but hot springs and fumaroles abound. Almost anywhere you find yourself on the island you’ll not be far from a developed resort or from au naturel outdoor-bathing facilities that put you in the most intimate touch with the sensual side of nature.

The Taiwanese were introduced to the life-enhancing pleasures of hot-spring soaking by the Japanese when the latter ruled the island 1895-1945, and today Taiwan can go toe to toe with the world-renowned sophistication and distinctive character of Japanese facilities and the hot-springs culture. On this day way back when, our subject experienced the very first hot-spring outing of his life, and today such outings have becoming a ritual experience to throw off the built-up pressures of the week, shared with wife, friends, and sometimes the wife’s entire clan. That “secret” Yangmingshan location has since been “discovered,” and today is part of the famed Tien Lai Hot Spring Resort. Money may now be charged, but this remains a terrific spot for late-night soaking under twinkling stars — a silky experience of thoroughgoing tactile satisfaction. This type of late-night stimulation can also be enjoyed at numerous hot-springs locations on Yangmingshan and elsewhere around the island.

A visit to any local temple provides clear evidence of the depth of religious belief on the part of the people of Taiwan. This fervor is even more profoundly evident on the pilgrimages that local believers undertake. The lead character in our narrative is a regular on such journeys, traveling with family members. His father-in-law, a retired real-estate developer, built and helps manage the two-story temple that is the core of community life in the family’s neighbourhood. Religious pilgrimages to the south are annual events, between 300 and 400 “neighbors” heading down together to celebrate the birthday of the temple’s main deity, Mazu, Goddess of the Sea, at older and more powerful Mazu temples. At some of these temples there may be tens of thousands of other pilgrims in the immediate area.

The pageantry of the processions bringing one’s own icons into and out of these temples is magnificent, and the symbolism is intricate, taking much observation to learn in depth. Such observation has earned the protagonist of our narrative the trust of fellow pilgrims, and on two very precious occasions he has been given the unique honor of carrying the Mazu icon from the transport vehicle and placing it in her sedan chair. Devotees vie to be given such honors, believing blessings and merit come with it, and the fact a non-believer has been allowed the opportunity shows the attractive open-heartedness of the local people. Try to imagine such a thing happening in reverse in your church, temple, or other place of worship back home. When holding the icon in his hands the feeling of heat pouring forth was tremendous, as if pulsing with electric power — if not direct evidence of the presence and powers of the goddess, then at least evidence of the holder’s awareness of the mysterious powers the many relatives and friends attribute to this incense-smoke-covered carving and its tried and tested ability to protect their homes and families. Presence at the spectacle that is the Mazu pilgrimage is highly recommended for a unique glimpse into another people’s thought-world. The “Festivals” section on the Tourism Bureau’s website is a good way to get started on your way.

Like the native peoples of many lands, the tribes of Taiwan have braved many existential trials over the past few centuries. Thankfully, today they stand proud still, and their cultures are being shown respect and enjoying genuine rejuvenation while the necessary adaptations proceed apace. Their festivals and rituals are very different, as you might imagine, and marvelously colorful. The Amis of the east coast have long invited outsiders to observe the ritual song and dance of their annual Harvest Festival, but something which our traveler holds dear to his heart was the opportunity in the early years of this century to both observe and take part in the celebrations as part of the first group of outsiders in modern times (beyond academics and officials) to be invited to genuine celebrations, not those staged exclusively for tourists. (These celebrations have been more systematically opened up since; check with the Tourism Bureau for details.)